Thursday, November 5, 2009

Corporal Punishment

A couple of weeks ago I played charades with my 4th grade creative arts class. They acted out (however reluctantly) everything from Rhianna to elephants. One option I included was our Head Teacher: Mr. Korir. The kid that pulled out his name hesitated momentarily and then proceeded to to air whip an invisible miscreant; Mr. Korir was immediately identified by the surrounding class. At the time I found this very funny possibly because I had only witnessed the occasions where the kids got hit once on their bum for forgetting their handkerchief at dinner or for neglecting to change out of their school uniforms for P.E. lessons. It didn't seem too bad. Teachers walking around with their honed sticks used for easily accessible whips is a part of life at Lessos Educational and this form of punishment is something that I've become accustomed to.
Last Friday I walked into my creative arts lesson and sat in the back for a while waiting for the Kiswahili teacher to finish. She was strolling the aisles of the classroom asking a question, and to all that raised their hands (80% of the class) she gave a sound slap on the back with her handy stick. Although the students cringed before each hit, they nonchalantly rubbed their backs afterward knowing more was to come. I didn't find the sight so entertaining. It had been put in perspective for me a few days earlier by a conversation I had had with students about life at the school.
The previous Monday I sat outside with a couple of kids trying to convince them to play cards with me. After several rebuffs, I gave up, and asked them instead what they think of Kenya. This question has been burning in my brain for a while, because every Kenyan I have talked to has wanted to leave Kenya for either the UK or US. They rarely have anything positive to say about Kenya beyond brief comments on the climate and geography. I wanted to know what they liked about Kenya; if they were to leave, what would they miss? Typically the conversation spun towards education, which it seems is a main reason for getting out of the country. We wound around to Lessos Educational, and I found out, to my surprise, that many of the students are unhappy here. A 6th grader named Silas tried to explain it to me.
He started, eying warily my cards, by saying that if they were to be caught simply within the vicinity of cards they would be beaten. He recalled one of my first nights in Lessos when I taught him and a kid named Eugene how to play chess. A teacher (infamous for his affinity to make good use of his stick) had come up ready to "murder" them, which they escaped because they had asked me to get permission from the head teacher for the lesson.
A few girls told me that the teachers often won't stop the beating until the student cries. Silas compared peoples' reactions to the thrashings to drug addicts. They get to a point where they don't care about their test results because they know they'll get beaten anyway for missing one answer, so why not fail? The result is the same. They have so adjusted to the overwrought abuse, they no longer fear it. As we made our way to the dinner line, Silas pointed out another six grader who had been hit 24 times the previous day for participating in the mad scramble for seconds at dinner. The teacher with the inclination to use the stick walked past just then and smiled at me. The conversation came to a screeching halt.
That night I went to the six grade study session to continue the conversation that had broken off. Luckily we had a black out that night and I could talk to the students more freely, without having to fear a teacher walking in to see them not studying or catching any of our conversation. I went to the far side of the room to sit down, and I heard the scratching of the desks as they were pulled around me; I could barely make out the students teeth and the whites of their eyes. They wanted to know what I thought of the discipline.
I had decided that they ought to know that these punishments would not be accepted in America. I told them that the great thing about America is that people can challenge laws and advocate change; they have input into government beyond the representatives and presidents they elect. The six graders were shocked that a child could sue a teacher for touching him, claiming abuse. I told them that I didn't necessarily agree with the outcome of these cases challenging the constitution, but I now appreciate more the process. Kenyans have no such outlet.
When they asked me what I thought of corporal punishment (not the exact term they used), I faltered. What did I think of it? I have heard before someone say: "If you don't do the right thing for the right reason, then you'll do the right thing because you fear the consequence". I am inclined to agree with this statement, however, when institutions adopt this policy, they risk putting a weapon in the hands of people that are perhaps addicted to the power, or too readily get carried away. Is it worth the risk?
I told them all of this because I hope that they would be more inclined to fight it if they are aware of a different way of doing things, as opposed to yearning even more to flee. I want them to feel that Kenya can change if they feel that is necessary. However, there would be so much at stake. Under the President Moi, people were secretly tortured for challenging his government, fortunately one escaped and was able to reveal to the people what had happened. It is not as easy as it is now in the U.S.

Monday, October 19, 2009

From the Base of the Nile

GOOD MORNING UGAAAANDA!!!!!!!!!

Greetings from the town of Jinja at the base of the Nile in Uganda. I have just had one of the most action packed weekends of my life, and naturally love it. Thursday night we arrived at the base of all activities, and also where we stayed most of the time. Friday we were prevented from doing much of anything because of the torrential rains. Saturday was when the real fun began. I woke up bright and early Saturday morning in anticipation of launching myself from a cliff and into a 45 metre free fall. Bungee jumping was surreal. I can't even describe it, because it almost felt like I wasn't falling. Before hand I was oddly calm, and I really didn't have to fight myself when I flung myself into the long drop... Immediately afterwards we went white water rafting, which was not nearly as exhilarating, but was still fun and beautiful. This lasted two days, and we all got pretty beat up from the sun and the occasional capsize (the best part).

One of the guides had a girlfriend from the UK that was actually an AV ten years ago. She currently runs a micro finance organization, organizing groups of people into a loan community where individuals hold each other accountable for their loans. It is sustainable, and slowly but surely the organization has been able to grow. They do a lot of training for work like carpentry and computer. It sounds amazing. Like Dr. Paul Farmer this lady, that goes by the name of Jena, didn't jump straight into the Ugandan community without thoroughly researching first. After having joined several similar organizations, and deciding that they did not have the most efficient and accurate solution, she decided to find out what she thought herself, and lived, cut off from everything else, in an Ugandan community for 9 months. She said that after each month she would come up with a different conclusions and solution for what the community needed.

What I found interesting was that after leaving Uganda as an AV, she knew that she wanted to return. This is something I have been struggling with, because for as long as I can remember, I have wanted to work and live in Africa. However, I feel that the more I am out of the US (this was true of Spain as well), the more I appreciate my own culture as opposed to the culture I'm in. I think the aspect of US culture that I miss the most is feminism. I came to Africa expecting women to be considered if nothing more than less contributing factors in society, and I didn't think that would bother me, especially as it wouldn't be a surprise. Instead, I have found that the form this lack of respect takes does surprise and shock me. Women are disregarded in marriages, because almost every husband cheats on their wives. Like with many problems that poison a society, this unfortunate commonality is true of even the nicest and most considerate men, who, having grown up this way, don't think of it. One of the girls in the eighth grade class told me that the only way for this to be solved is for women to separate themselves from men, working and living on their own, so that wives are in higher demand, and therefore, are treated with more equality. I agree with her. I don't really see women joining together in an uprising commanding attention and a change, although I'm sure that any observer could have said the same of America in the late 1800s early 1900s. Time will tell.

Until a few weeks from now.

Nora.

Saturday, October 3, 2009

How am I adjusting to the Kenyan lifestyle?

I have no exiting motorbike races to capture your attention, so instead I have decided to talk about day-to-day affairs such as eating habits, cleanliness, and maybe more if something else hits me.

My diet currently consists of 10 items: bread, peanut butter, bananas, avocados, onions, pasta, beans, rice, tomatoes, and the occasional egg. This is nothing compared to the 6 item diet of the borders at my school. They have ugali (a bread-like, dense, and grainy Kenyan staple) and scones for breakfast, porridge at tea time, beans and rice for lunch, and ugali and cabbage for dinner. Yum. I have taken quite a liking to ugali. It hasn't got much in the way of taste, but the consistency is nice and it fills a stomach. Food is probably last on the list (which doesn't really exist) of things I am missing from home. I never crave anything in the way of meat, dairy, or baked goods. Some other AVs go crazy over meat on the weekends, but I have enjoyed the vegetarian diet.

Cleanliness here is something else. Despite the fact that it is valued highy here (I have had several people comliment me on the lack of dirt under my nails), it is hard to come by. I have no problem having to use the long drop or even the process of having to use a bucket for a shower. However, I shower twice a week at best because our water supplies are limited and it is a bit of a hassle having to heat water (which was once in the form of rain and isn't really clean anyway). The only parts of my body that recieve a consistant washing are my face, hands, and feet. Yes, my feet are in the equation, because they are the one part of my body that I can't bear to let ferment.

It's interesting to me that things like easy shower, toilet, and food access I thought I would miss so much, but even when they are available it is not a big relief. I think about individuals and culture more than those conveniences (although a dishwasher and clothes washer would be nice).

I cannot believe I almost negected to inform you that I have just finished one of the best boks of all time: The Autobiography of Malcolm X. It's very interesting to have read that hear in Kenya because Malcolm X advocated a renewal of pride as a way to remove the racial barriers. He said that the black man would achieve nothing if he didn't organize with other black men who shared a pride in their race and ethnicity. Pride is something that is unfortunalty lacking here in Kenya. This has become especially apparent to me having finished this book. Two women we met in town were talking about being white in a fashionable sense. Apparently, many women here not only chemically srteighten and soften their hair, but also take chemicals that make their skin lighter. This makes me sad, especially in light of Malcolm X who abhorred this type of thing. I just want to shout at these women that I am proud of being white and they should be proud of being black. It does make me consider, however, that really the same phenomenon is true back home with people ruining their skin and hair trying to make it something that it's not.

Until Next Time (Hopefully, although probably not, next Week)

Nora

Saturday, September 19, 2009

Kenyan Kindness Act 1

Wow I have been in Kenya for just under three weeks!

I have had a very eventful week (it is hard not to as a foreigner emerged in a strange culture). I have learned so much. I will start off by relaying to you this really exciting and encouraging story. Last weekend we (the AVs) went to Eldoret, and unfortunately, my roommate, Libby, lost her ipod on the journey. This was so sad, as so many memories hve already been made surrounding that ipod and the handy speakers that allow us all to enjoy. On Teusday Sophie and I walked into Lessos in order to buy more supplies. As I have visited multiple cities of varying sizes and demographics, I have observed that the Kenyan people, no matter where they're from, are friendly. This has been a bit of a shock to me, because the people in Lessos, while friendly and open compared to western standards, are cold in light of the greater Kenyan community. As Sophie and I made our way back to the school, my observation turned to frustration, and I decided to test the town by saying "Jambo" to everyone I saw (you may be surprised to note that the most petulent-looking people most often had the warmest responses). As I stocked out of town, aggressivly saying Jambo to everyone, a lady beckoned me into her shop. Taken aback, I was reluctant, not in the mood, but Sophie and I followed. We made casual conversation for seconds before she slyly asked if we had lost anything. She wasn't familiar with the ipod, but recognised MP3 player, and my descriptions of stars suck on it. She faltered long enough for Sophie and I to ask her whether she had it in her possetion at least five times. She went on smiling (I couldn't figure out if she was gong to demand some sort of compensation). Finally she went around her counter and pulled it out. Sophie and I were electric. She said she didn't want anything in return, but finally accepted our money (we plan to opt for her shop in the future). It just so happened that when we got out of the taxi to Eldoret, and chose a matatu instead, the ipod had slipped out of Libby's pocket in front of her store. Boy was I grounded, thrown off my high-jambo saying horse.

A similar situation happened yesterday. We are in Kisumu (city of Obama and they know it) this weekend and in order to get here, we hopped a matatu with three boys stationed at a school near us. The matatu needed to be looked at, so we were tranfered to another at a town, about an hour into our (uncomfortable, but very attractive) journey. I got out first, as I had been sitting in the front (stratyegically choen by me... far higher level of comfort than those in back), I was the first out and the first to choose the front of the next matatu. There was comotoin behind me, and since my colleagues hadn't joined me, I went to investigate. Apparently, Immy had her phone stolen, and a taxi driver among other towns people claimed that they saw the woman that had done it. The taxi driver (not a car taxi, but motorcycle) offered to go after her, so James (an AV) jumped on back with him. A couple minutes later, Jack went down the road to try and spot James, and another taxi/motorcycle driver offered to give him a lift. I couldn't help but laughing despite the circumstances when I learned all this. It was so funny and bizarre. James returned about 10 minutes later, and made his way through the crowd that had gathered to stare for their friday afternoon entertainment. He had several scratches on his arm. During the intensity of the race, the taxi driver had taken a turn too quickly and both he and James flew off. Neither was hurt badly, but the taxi driver was worse off. On top of everything, the taxi driver didn't demand to be paid, and said he had just wanted to help. Thankfully, James did pay him. Jack returned a bit later and the driver wasn't as generous. It goes both ways.

Yet again, I have so much to say, but money and time confine me. Until next week.

Nora

Thursday, September 10, 2009

Nine Days in Kenya

Hey Everyone!!!
I have finally managed internet access. I am in the town of Lessos, a 5 minute walk from my school: Lessos Educations Center. It is a private bording school, and today is my second day teaching. Yes, teaching, not sitting on the sidelines. I have a total of 17 classes, 4 secondary (high school) and 13 primary. Today I had 2 early P.E. classes with standards (grades) 1 and 4. It has been amazing how much young kids love mzungos (whites). They are always touching us and chasing us down the road. The other day my roommates (Immy, Libby, and Sophie) and I were walking back after having shopped for some food supplies, and a group of small kids chirped in chorus from about 50 yards away: ''How are you?''. I yelled back ''Fine. How are you?'', to which they screamed and ran away. Very funny. So far the attention has not gottan old and I doubt it will.
In the secondary school, I have a math, english, and history class. I say this in the singular form, because I will only be teaching each subject once a week, and the full time teacher eill be covering it the rest of the time. This means that I have to come to each class prepared to ask them where they left off, and then progress form there. So far I have only taught primary Creative Arts and P.E. I started to plan my history lesson yesterday, which I was excited about, feeling that I could assist the most in this arena. The chapter is ''The History of Communication and Transport''. Alright. I started to read through it, and I felt my confidence falter. It listed each animal that has been used for transport and where. It then expanded upon the develpoment of wheels... Very straightforward. Hard to compare. What is the relevance for this information today? It will be much harder than I thought to encourage the students to question the ideas presented, as they are not ideas, but simply fact. Very challenging, but I am up to it and I have until monday afternoon to expand upon my initial ideas.
The Head Teacher is very enthusiastic about having AV's (people in our program). It seems that they have had excelent AV's in the past, so we have a high standard to breach. The other teachers do not show their enthusiasm so readily, although most have been nice and welcoming. I have been trying to attend the daily tea in the ''teachers lounge'' in order to strike up conversations with the teachers, but I have found my inquires most often lead to a dead end. However, they find me very funny. I'm not sure I'm laughing with them.
Our house is in the middle of the school, and I've been woken up around 6 every day by children running about (they wake up at 4). I have no running water or shelves in my room, but I have found the house to be comfortable. Perhaps this is because I have avoided the shower... but in any case. Dishes have become a routine for us, although laundry is still a bit of a struggle.
I have so much to say, but I will wait to expand for this weekend. All AV's are going to the city Eldoret for a nice shower, food, etc. There I will have fast and easy internet access.
I am reminded of you all constantly. Little things. Especially Bobbi...
I love it here, but I am being safe and forward thinking. I miss you all, but not too much stay in touch. My mailing address is:
Nora Ryan
Lessos Education Center
Box 335
Lessos 30302
Kenya

Cheers.
Nora

Monday, August 10, 2009

Where Will I Be?

I have uploaded a few pictures from the Internet of the region where I'll be staying. The Rift Valley encompasses a large part of Kenya, so I will not necessarily be seeing the images depicted here, but one can hope.















As you can see I will be located in Western Kenya near the town of Eldorat and Lake Victoria in the Rift Valley.

















I would like to upload pictures as I progress in my stay, but as I currently own a 35 mm, and am skeptical that the Internet cafes will have scanners, I might have to wait until my return to the US.

Tuesday, July 7, 2009

Welcome


I am going to take this time to welcome people to my blog. In the future this blog will follow my various pursuits from Kenya, to movie and book reviews, to daily updates on life's progress. I hope to at some point also upload pictures I have taken.